On August 21st, I finally made a trek to Alert Bay. My Art History 206 class that I took in 2006 with Laura Wee Lay Laq focused on a number of events from the village’s history that really interest me: the Chicago Worlds Fair performers, the Curtis movie, the Cranmer Potlatch arrests, attempts to relocate the village into Stanley Park as a tourist attraction, the 1953 potlatch at Thunderbird Park in Victoria, Mungo Martin, Charlie James, Ellen Neel, the Hunts…so many associations.

My time on the island was too short. It was a 4 1/2 hour drive from Nanaimo (including a wrong turn it Courtney – don’t take the second exit unless you want the cow-path tour). The day was supposed to be a downpour, but turned-out to be clear and hot. It was a race to get lunch at the store and get over to the Big House to see the dance performance once the ferry docked. It’s a 1.5 km walk, so if you ever do the trip, bear that in mind or you will be running and eating at the same time like I was.

The dances were really well done, focusing on a cast of young peformers, the littlest of whom was 3. The last number was the “happy dance” were everyone in the crowd was invited by the dancers to join in. It ended with the kids wading into the crowd, shaking everyone’s hands and thanking them for coming.

The former St. Michael’s Residential School adjoins the U’mista Cultural Center on the water front. It stands-out in its decrepit state, weathering away like an old stump – the site of much pain and suffering in the community.

As I slowly worked my way back to town, the image of my cousin running towards me in the distance cued me to the fact that the ferry was leaving earlier than I thought. I didn’t get a chance to visit the town this trip. Next time, it will be an overnight trip.

I am so impressed with the village and the Namgis First Nation. The people that I met were friendly and helpful. The speakers at the dance performance genuinely connected with the visitors and explained issues important to the Kwakwaka’wakw people, the environment and their relationship to non-Natives. The last picture I took was a mural painted on the side of a building which read, “Share, Connect, Create, Soul.” That summed-up my experience perfectly.

Special thanks to Barb Cranmer for granting permission for the pictures from the Big House to be posted on this site.